I made a crack climbing training tool that was versitile and portable. It can stay in my apartment and every once in a while I bring to the climbing gym as an instructional tool for the athletes I coach.
It's great tool to teach beginner fist, hand, and finger jamming and ring lock techniques. The board starts at 3" and gradually goes down to 0.5". Check out the video below for a demonstration. Children find it much more difficult because the machine is rather heavy for them!
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This past September, I (Daniel) accepted the opportunity to coach the Newfoundland Junior Climbing Team. Head coach - Sarah Spurrell - is a close friend and we both passionately nerd out about climbing training and coaching. We train 16 psyched kids from ages 11 to 18 who practice two to three times a week for 3 hours. Of the many lessons I've learned in the past 4 months, I believe there are three important differences between training oneself and coaching other climbers. To be effective at self-training, one should 1) possess some knowledge about training and technique, 2) learn to listen to signals coming from the body, and 3) implement a consistent training plan. To be an effective coach, one should 1) possess a tremendous amount of knowledge about training and technique, 2) learn to teach athletes how to listen to signals from their own body, and 3) implement a coaching plan that is entirely flexible for the athletes. So, before starting my new role as coach, I scoured the internet for books about climbing technique. I wanted a book with 1) a thorough breakdown of climbing technique, and 2) a plethora of drills. Among the limited number of climbing technique books in publication, "Rock Climbing Technique" stood out because I thought John Kettle was convincing and knowledgeable on the Training Beta Podcast and the posts on his Facebook Page are thoughtful and interesting for climbers and climbing coaches alike. $25 CAD on Amazon |
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